I have an affinity for rock. Rock emerging from the surface of the earth – insistent, unmitigated, regal. Stones, not so much. Where I grew up in south western Ontario, we liked to say that we had a hundred and fifty feet of topsoil. Each spring stones as big as cantaloupes would sprout in my grandfather’s cornfields. They would need to be “picked” before the spring ploughing could commence. Stones are an annoyance. A deathly annoyance for my grandfather. Rock, by contrast, is elemental.
Chippewa Falls
Almost three hours drive from my childhood home, on the way to Toronto, there are protrusions from the Niagara escarpment that border the highway. Rock! How I used to relish seeing those nubs on our rare travels that way. Years later I saw plenty of rock in Sweden, and also Nepal, as well as the rolling Gatineau hills near Ottawa. But a recent first visit to northern Ontario has set a new benchmark for rock.
Pancake Bay
If you are planning a visit to northern Ontario, I recommend choosing the last weekend in September. If possible, arrange for brilliant clear blue skies during the day, and crisp cold nights with a full moon. Push the blustery autumn storms into late October or November so that the lurid palette brushed on to the oak and maple and birch leaves can work its wonder. Then take a drive northward from Sault Ste Marie towards Wawa on the Trans Canada highway. And just marvel.
Agawa Bay
Oh, and be sure to keep an eye out for some serious rock.
Agawa Rock